Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Silk blouse

Silk doupioni blouse with short puffed sleeves, elastic waist, waist darts and shirt collar. This is from BWOF 06/2008, 107 I made view B. This is a nice easy pattern to sew, I like the waist darts it has a nice slimming effect. I made a size 38 going up to 40 from the waist down. I altered the width of the SA on the collar, neck line and facings to 1/4''all other seams 1/2'' except side seams and back seams 1''.The collar had nice smooth points and trimming was not necessary. This was the first time I did this, I usually use the standard 5/8" SA. The fabric is an uneven plaid, how ever I didn't have enough for a match of sleeves to bodice. I bought this fabric for lining a skirt but decided it was a bit on the heavy side , that's the main reason for the shortage.
I used the wrapped corner technique for my collar as per Nancy Zieman,
interface upper and under collar, with RS together pin upper and under collar along the unnotched edge. Stitch the seam from end to end, press the seam to 1 side and then press open. Press the SA toward the under collar and understitch the entire seam using multi zigzag . Fold the collar along the seam right sides together, the SA will roll toward the under collar. Stitch from the fold to the neckline edge, trim the corner allowences at an angle. Press the SA to 1 side then press them open, press the corners over a point presser, turn the collar R side out and machine baste the open edges together. Works great